Tupelo Honey, an Asheville-based branded eatery, has opened at MidCity.

The self-described “Southern Kitchen and Bar” is decidedly contemporary.

An open layout, light wood, and boho-inspired beaded chandeliers immediately tip diners off to the fact that this is not the type of place to serve Southern food that is looking over its shoulder to the past.

As my husband and I make our way to the table, I’m glad I made reservations. Every spot is taken, and groups of diners are turning away from the hostess stand as she relays the wait time.

Our waitress is young and earnest, with curly red hair tucked under a bandana.

I start with a “Buzz-Free” Bee’s Knees. The spirit-free cocktail is “just the thing” for a Friday lunch — when the weekend feels so close but is still a few hours of work away. The icy mocktail is bright and refreshing, with dominant citrus flavors.

We spend a few minutes mulling over our options and enjoying the buzzy atmosphere.

The mountain morning bowl is the perfect brunch option for the guest who wants to feel like they are trying a bit of everything. No culinary FOMO (fear of missing out) here, as the bowl has it all. Two sunny-side up eggs, crispy potatoes, cheese, and bacon all rest on a serving of grits.

Green tomato salsa and a red pepper coulis add to the marriage of textures and flavors in this dish, which is served in a cast iron skillet.

My husband opts for Tupelo Honey’s famous sweet and spicy fried chicken. Guests can order all white meat, all dark meat, or a mix of the two. In the spirit of research, Andy tries both.

The fried chicken is smothered in the glaze — which is sweet at the first bite, followed by just enough heat to be interesting. The dish is in keeping with the concept of the restaurant — Southern, but modern. For better or worse, this is not the chicken your grandmother fried on Sundays.

The bone-in chicken is juicy and the fries are crispy — a side of pickles provides some acidity to bring balance.

Alesha Sisk, Tupelo’s Vice President of People and Culture, comes by our table to chat.

The Tupelo Honey at MidCity has only been open since the first week of November, but Sisk says that certain menu items are already clear winners.

“We sell a lot of our mahi-mahi and a lot of the meatloaf — a bourbon, peppercorn-glazed meatloaf,” said Sisk. “We also sell a tremendous amount of chicken and waffles. We have three different versions and they all fly out of the window.”

The menu’s “biscuits for a cause” caught my eye and Sisk explains their origins.

During the pandemic, Tupelo Honey began charging for biscuits as a way to support a financial relief fund for employees who were facing hardship, says Sisk.

The program has run continuously since then and is currently providing assistance to Asheville-area employees post-Hurricane Helene.

“The biscuits for a cause are near and dear to my heart because I get to see their impact everyday,” said Sisk. “It means a lot to the team members when we are able to help.”

Having already abandoned any hint of moderation, Andy and I split a piece of the brown butter pecan pie. The richness of the pie makes it the perfect treat to share.

Tupelo has shared the pecan pie recipe on their website. Amaze your family and friends by baking the Tupelo Honey pecan pie at home and bringing it to your Thanksgiving meal.

Lunch for two was $75 after tip, but our order would be more moderate on a typical visit.

Reservations are not required, but they are recommended.